Print and Plain Sewing Competition – Entry 4

Lucy Beach -  Textile Designer

Lucy Beach – Textile Designer

My entry in the Print and Plain Sewing Competition by Lucy B

My love affair with Harem pants – “poo” pants!”

My main passion in sewing is texture and textiles and I love print.
For the last few years I have been building up a DIY print studio at home.

Before coming to Designer stitch I was a “Crafty sewer” – not bad but not any good. I have spent lots of time with Ann working on basic techniques so I can now focus on creating.

This project is my first go at combining the two techniques – print and sewing.
I have a long love affair with dropped crotch and harem pants (poo pants as they are known to me and Ann in class) and after many attempts, drafts and nasty nylon mock-ups I finally found a pair I love and could incorporate my own print into.
For this comp I have entered two designs as I wanted to experiment with what the same design would look like in two very different fabrics and print techniques.

 SILK PAIR.

Pre-soaking Silk with Soda Ash.

Pre-soaking Silk with Soda Ash.

Firstly I pre soaked white silk in soda ash, a process that allows the applied dye to become washable and permanent. I then dyed my silk navy leaving one panel white which I will use later to print on.

Silk in the dye bath.

Silk in the dye bath.

I then dyed my silk navy leaving one panel white.

Preparing my silk screen.

Preparing my silk screen.

Next I printed my feature panel with a technique called deconstructive screen printing where certain pastes are used that leave behind abstract patterns.

Deconstructive Screen

Deconstructive Screen

 

Printing with my screen.

Printing with my screen.

I repeated and over printed until I had a cloth I was happy with. I was then ready to cure and wash my fabric so sewing could begin.

Printed front pleat area of my pants .

Printed front pleat area of my pants .

The biggest design feature of these trousers is the pleat panel which is what I wanted to highlight with the print. I learnt basic pleating, a technique I have never
mastered before.

Finished pants.

Finished pants.

 

Close view of my print.

Close view of my print.

 

Wearing my pants.

Wearing my pants.

 LINEN PAIR.

The second pair I made out of linen to experiment with a heavier drape around the pleated area. For this pair I made my own relief print out of a wooden block and a mesh fabric which I over laid to create the pattern.

Alternate version of pants.

Alternate version of pants.

 

I hope that you have enjoyed reading about my print journey and seeing what I do in my studio.

Lucy B.

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