Helen V’s Woolen Coat

helen pattern making┬áThis year I am going to show case my students and their work and I would like to introduce Helen V. Helen originally studied Fashion Design at the (then) Melbourne College of Textiles in Pascoe Vale back in the ’90’s( now amalgamated into RMIT- Brunswick). After having a successful career in the knit wear industry , Helen retired from the industry to have her children.

Helen started her pattern making classes with me 2013 to re-enforce her skills and to further her study in more difficult areas of pattern engineering. If you were to ask her if have I managed to keep up the challenges for her – yes… she would wholeheartedly agree.

Helen has drafted her library of blocks – skirt, pants block ( English and German ) and also her bodice blocks.

The below photos show Helen’s design and draft of her 2013 winter coat. The garment was inspired by a Marfy design – www.marfy.it/index.php. The earliest Marfy pattern catalog that I own is from 1989 and have continued to purchase them ever since.They are great inspiration and as they sell the individual patterns from the catalog they are a great source for your own Designer Garment.

Below are photos of her design and her finished coat. This was Helen’s first trial of her pattern and instead of using a calico for fit, we were very confident that the shape would be a success so we went for the “real thing’ in fabric .The coating was purchased from Darn Cheap , and is a medium weight wool blend ( more wool than blend ) – and at only $20 per metre, I am sure you will all agree that for the first try or “toile” the garment has been a great success.

Design details such as – raglan saddle shoulder, off-set princess paneling, and wide grown-on collar, complete with full lining.

One of Helen’s fellow students – Ali – loved the coat so much she has also made one for herself. Photo’s will be coming soon.

Helen was so happy with her first version of the coat, she then purchased another wool blend from Darn Cheap to re-make the jacket. Helen had a school function to attend so she made the coat again and also a matching print dress. The dress was developed from her bodice block – front draped crossover upper bodice, fitted skirt and draped front hanging sash. Again the pattern was a bit challenging and gave me a few grey hairs in construction , but it was a successful make in the end.


Cheerio and Good luck to you all.

Ann from Designer Stitch School of Fashion and Design.

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